Another Country Diary gumboots
Another Country Diary


Links to images and other pages are in blue. These entries are broken up into weeks, or when the page gets too image heavy. 
26 October -2 November.
More Songs about Buildings and Food Pt.4
Driving through the tall timber forests was more interesting than the low desert scrub, but stopping was a lot harder on the narrow roads with double lines. That's my excuse.

Just outside Margaret River is the small town of Witchcliffe. Petrol station, agricultural supplies and farm machinery, and this large post office building. I assume only the front is the office and in a former life it was the community hall.

We followed a station wagon full of young Japanese surfers along the coast. We were looking at waves, they were looking for them. This view is towards where the Margaret River enters the sea.

Margaret River township is caught in the middle of traditional agriculture (lush green fields, in complete contrast to the dry wheat belt we'd crossed), and wine and tourism. It has small town charm and some very  sophisticated shops and restaurants just waiting for the weekend visitor from Perth. Or people like us.

I chased these honeyeaters (from a distance with the long telephoto) across grevillias, banksias and plants I'd never seen, all lush and nectar laden. I've bought a WA Wildflower book but until I can identify them all properly, take this popup page as a "gee, that's pretty".
Angela, who works at the office with Jan and I, has a twin brother who is one of the assistant winemakers at Southcorp's Devil's Lair winery. They are at the top end of the prestige winemakers in Margaret River, so of course we accepted the offer to meet Justin, and have him show us the winery. There's no cellar door sales at Devil's Lair so it's invitation only (if you can find it, it's set back from the main tourist routes). The location is very attractive, a man made dam sets of the modern corrugated iron buildings and the sloping hills around it lush and green. 

The Devil's Lair name comes from a cave nearby that was "an ancient, mysterious burial ground known to have been inhabited as long as 40,000 years ago. Fossil remains of the elusive Tasmanian Devil discovered on the site are believed to be the origin of the cave's name." The image used on the logo came from the cave wall, and is more likely a Tasmanian Tiger however. There's that strange dismembered leg which is the name of the second range of wines sold from the Margaret River winery, Fifth Leg.  

Justin was great, obviously passionate about his craft, he led us from barrel to barrel to show us the development in flavours, body and colour. We nodded a lot, and didn't spit out as much as we should have. Justin, these pictures are for you. Thanks.
(Popup window two pages approx. 150k each, linked to larger images 700 pixels wide).   

Ed Green's Green Valley wines were recommended to us by Justin as a contrast to the big wineries way of doing things. Ed talked us through the way he markets and how he has concentrated on selling direct to restaurants in the cities where his children live. He gets to visit, do business and they promote his wine by word of mouth. We bought back some bottles and Ed said you can you can get his wine on the cellar lists at Anise in Canberra and Aria in Sydney.  
As we drove down to Leuwin Estate, for lunch, passing under a tree I heard a bang on the roof. Looking back I could see the road littered with chewed gumnuts. I stopped and looked towards the trees where I figured there had to be cockatoos.
Yep, white tailed black cockatoos are more common in WA than around Bungendore. While I tried, black cockatoos against a bright sky don't make for a great photograph.
We had lunch at Leuwin Estate. This is the entree and below what was left of the Chef's plate we shared. Great Food and afterward the surprise of the Gallery.  
More images
of lunch at Leuwin.
(I'll add some more details here soon)
Great, instead of staying up late, I can get a good nights sleep and be ready for when it opens at 8.00am.
See the note above about the wildflowers. Some more on this popup page
We stayed two nights in Margaret River and ate at Vat 107 and at Wino's. We made a booking for the first and just chanced it for Wino's. The place was packed. There are serious blackboard menus and sherry glass tasting sizes so you can settle on the wine of the night, dozens of which are available by glass.
The food was also aimed at snacking and drinking with wine, a selection of tapas-like items they called 'Grits'. I had a creditable Bolito Misto and we switched wines a few times. Both places are recommended, but the buzz in the bar at Wino's would have to be a first stop.
As we were walking around I found this drunken waterlilly, submerged but intact and glowing. There's a bigger image here.(700 pixels wide, 180k). If I have to end this somewhere, and I do, this will be the image. We drove to Perth in the morning of Saturday and were home in Bungendore by midnight.

In all, we flew 3000 kilometers, and drove the same distance.
A nice week.

 
  Pt.1 Perth,Fremantle, Northam  
Pt.2 Kalgoorlie 
Pt.3 Esperance - Denmark
Fred Harden  
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