| The 'egg' plant. Eggplant?
Aubergine? Brinjal? The names for Solanum
melongene, it appears, have a great deal
of complicated historical derivation, just the stuff
for a rainy afternoon of exploration. This is what
you have reference books for. There is distinct
pleasure in following up a word or phrase that leads
you to discover another piece of garden (or worldly)
knowledge. There's also nagging guilt about taking
the time out when there's so much else to do, but
life's too short to worry about that.
I've seen lots of different shapes for eggplants,
mostly purple but some striped and pale yellow in
colour. All of them have been pear shaped or are
long like a zucchini and I'm surprised that I'd
never thought about why they were called eggplant,
when they look nothing like eggs.
From my garden reference it says that there are old
varieties available that do look like eggs (and
still being grown extensively for pickling in Spain).
They are white, and shaped like a large egg. The
plants were first mentioned in a 5th Century Chinese
agricultural text book and may have originated in
India. They became popular throughout Asia, and
through trade with the Arabs and the Moorish
conquest of Spain, arrived in Europe in the 13th
Century. They were considered decorative and
inedible in Europe. Albertus Magnus (who may
or may
not have been an alchemist) but wrote
extensively as a botanist, mentions eggplants in the
mid 13th Century.
Alan Davidson says in his Oxford Companion to
Food, that we call them eggfruit in Australia,
something I've never heard. The Greeks know it as melitzana
and the Italians as melanzana which both
derive from the Latin name mela insana, and believing
it was an apple ( mela) and that it made you
insane (insana). The species Solanaceae includes
nightshade and potatoes. The egg plant traveled with
the Spanish and Portuguese to the Americas, where it
quickly became popular. In the West Indies its
Indian origin as brinjal apparently gives it
the name 'brown jolly'.
In the Oxford book's entry for 'Aubergine' it tells
how that name has come as a progression from vatin
gana, the name in Sanskrit, to badingen
in Persian, to the Arabic albadingen to
Spanish albadingena and to the French aubergine.
Trust me (or rather, them). The prompt for looking
this up was a recipe for chickpea ratatouille in The Canberra Times
Food and Wine supplement. It mentioned that 'the
original recipe for this dish in an English cookbook
suggests salting the eggplant first to draw out the
bitterness but I've found that with the varieties in
Australia we don't need to do that'. That's
true, I've tried
salting them myself, but gave it up as unnecessary
and wondered why it was still suggested. I should have
realized when the writer later said, 'the original
recipe called for lots of oil on on the baked
vegetable but I find just a brush of oil is enough'.
Grilling eggplant for pasta alla norma uses
lots of oil.
Apparently while the older versions of the eggplant
were salted to draw off their bitterness, it also
toughened the cell walls of the plant and stopped it
absorbing so much oil in cooking. That's the main reason
why it's suggested with the mild varieties we have
today.
Alan Davidson mentions 'the' most famous eggplant dish, "eaten all over the Arab world, called Imam
bayaldi - 'the priest fainted'. This consists of
aubergines stuffed with onions (also, in some recent
recipes with tomatoes) and cooked in olive oil.
There are two stories about the origin of the name.
One is that the priest fainted because of the
deliciousness of the dish; the other is that he
fainted when he heard how much (expensive) oil his
wife had used in making the recipe. The ability of
aubergines to soak up vast amounts of oil is
legendary.'
That is of course one of the reasons why I love
eggplant.
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